Explore the glass filled cobblestone, gentleman’s clubs, and lackluster marina that make Vilamoura a never-visit destination. Dive into my guide to uncover the lesser-known woes of living here that will make your move regrettable.

Vilamoura is advertised as a resort town and a golfer’s paradise. There’s a marina, casino, and many overpriced restaurants. It’s known for attracting wealthy British expats. When I researched places to live in the Algarve (Portugal’s southernmost region) I narrowed it down to central Algarve. My family and I moved away from the US for many reasons, one being to experience a new way of life. I want to expose my two young children (ages 1 and 3) to many cultures, so I never expect to be in one place permanently. I’ve lived in big cities for most of my adult life and love convenience and options. The Algarve is a collection of cities- none of them large. This would be a huge adjustment but I welcomed the challenge.

Vilamoura was not at the top of my list because I wanted a more authentic Portuguese experience. But our real estate agent presented us with a rental property on the luxurious Vila Sol Golf Course. The condo was large and right at our budget, had a beautiful pool, and I wasn’t about to succumb to analysis paralysis. So, we signed the 1-year lease sight unseen.

The drive south to the Algarve from Lisbon was filled with rolling hills and beautiful untouched farmland. I love how tranquil the countryside of Portugal feels. I started to get nervous as we neared our destination as there was a lack of infrastructure, worn down buildings and the roads were a little neglected. I was encouraged as we continued into Vilamoura because it appeared more tidy. I also knew to keep an open mind. This wasn’t my first time moving abroad and culture shock is real. But within the first week, I had serious doubts about our decision to sell our house, all our stuff, and move our family to the Algarve.

The Good-ish:

Manicured Landscaping

Compared to surrounding areas that are overgrown, you’ll notice the landscaping is more intricately manicured in Vilamoura. It feels like you’re in a resort town (because you are). 6 internationally acclaimed golf courses in Vilamoura attract many wealthy tourists. With luxury hotels and restaurants to support this clientele, there is an expectation for the area to present well.

Less Lingering Cigarette Smoke  

I couldn’t get used to the overwhelming cigarette smoke in Portugal. If you’re out in public you’re engulfed in smoke. I couldn’t breathe each time I stepped outside a store where all the smokers congregated. The aroma seeps into the indoor areas, making the stores reek of dirty ashtrays. I didn’t smell as much cigarette smoke while out in Vilamoura. My guess as to why: the heavy British population. Only 12.9% of people from the UK smoke cigarettes while 21% of Portuguese smoke cigarettes (Statista, 2020). It was refreshing to enjoy the scent of nature and not be gagging from smoke. 

Nice Grocery Stores

During my first experience at a Portuguese grocery store, I headed straight to the fresh fish section. As someone who loves seafood, I went to take a picture of some random large fish they had on display to send to my best friend. The fish lady scowled at me and said something in Portuguese. I don’t speak Portuguese but It was clear she didn’t want me taking pictures of her fish. Was this for the fish’s anonymity? I don’t know. But either way, there’s a nice Continente Modelo and Pingo Doce that we frequented weekly. It’s a bonus that the grocery carts have wheels that move in all directions and family parking spaces!

The Hospitals Are Good Enough

The International Clinic Vilamoura facility was decent from what I could gather. It’s small but looks updated. We only went in once for my 12-month-old’s check-up (this was a whole other saga). Another time we went to Hospital Lusíadas Vilamoura for the emergency room for my toddler who had a lingering cough. Both of these are private hospitals making them of higher quality than the public hospitals. Our bill for each visit was less than €100 without insurance. 

Mostly English Speakers

Because it is heavily populated with British expats and tourists, almost everyone speaks English. I consider this a pro as it’s easier to navigate and most people you interact with are British or English-speaking tourists.

The Not So Good: 

Feels Inauthentic

There was no charm or authenticity in sight. Blame it on it being a resort town built for wealthy tourists and expats. The stores and restaurants cater to their liking, which seems to be overpriced pub-style food, baked bean breakfasts, golf, and weird Lily Pulitzer-style mumus. 

All of our neighbors were seasonal. Most of the condos in our complex were completely vacant when we showed up in April. Little by little our neighbors trickled in. Most were retirees from the UK. Our next-door neighbor was a sweet old lady from Ireland who stayed there alone. She couldn’t drive anymore so she Ubered everywhere. Her younger party boy son and his friends would join her later. Another neighbor, an older businessman from Oxford, lent us some of his grandchildren’s toys and raved about the Marina (eye-roll) and how he doesn’t venture out to the more local Portuguese towns. Occasionally, younger adults would rent out the condos next to ours and blast “Sweet Caroline” while sunbathing on lounge chairs by the pool.

As a family with young kids eager to find a community, living in a tourist resort made it extremely difficult. In Vilamoura, people are transient and conversation revolves around where you’re from and when you’re leaving. 

The Marina Is Overrated

Full of “gentlemen’s clubs”, massage parlors, and overpriced food, we chose poorly for our first night’s dinner location. This Friday night in April, we ate at a highly recommended Portuguese restaurant near the marina. Walking there, I noticed glass scattered all along the cobblestone paths. I excitedly explained to the waiter how this was our first Portuguese meal in Portugal and I ordered the Bacalhau. He didn’t seem too eager to make this a great experience. Looking back I wonder if he thought it was comical we chose their restaurant for this occasion. The cod was chewy, but I assumed it was normal for the dish. After dinner, we meandered down the main street of the marina and were greeted by drunken men of all ages stumbling around by the strip clubs and a line of taxis ready to take them home. The strange part was we were not the only family out. The blatant debauchery mixed with dining families was bizarre. I’d later find out this area is a hot spot for drug dealers. Love that!

The marina is far from charming and there are no public restrooms. A woman in green spandex shorts raced me and my stroller to a pub bathroom practically pushing us over. I thought “So much for the mothers and children first” rule Portugal is revered for. We used the men’s room instead. Unless you enjoy watching middle-aged men dining with no shirts on, are a retiree from the UK, or a fraternity type, avoid the marina.

Country Club Vibe

The overall vibe of the area is one of pretension. Not pretentious in the way Beverly Hills is, though. In an upscale area in America, you tend to see people in luxury brands, but I felt very self-conscious about bringing out my luxury items. The contrast between the wealthy tourists and the locals was harsh. It didn’t sit right with me wearing my designer items when the workers were making a disturbingly small wage of around €4.73 (or $4.73) per hour or less. 

Takes Forever to Get to the Highway 

Something I didn’t realize when we chose our rental was how long it would take to get out of our area and onto the highway! On the map, Vilamoura looks centralized, but you have to drive north for about 20 minutes to reach A22 (the main highway). You would utilize this highway for everything- going to MAR shopping mall, Faro, Albufeira, Lagos, or even north to Lisbon. Outings are inconvenient (especially with 2 young children) so I’d end up staying in Vilamoura most days. When I ventured out, I had to plan and pack for a full-day trip.

Expensive Rent

We were excited about having lower expenses. You always read “Californians Flock to Portugal for an Affordable Standard of Living!”. This is only true if you’re living in the countryside. Our expenses were not significantly lower than when we lived in San Diego (one of the most expensive US cities). You can expect to pay about €2,500-€4,000 ($2,700-$4,300) for a 2-3 bedroom apartment. When putting in an offer for a rental, many provide a 6 months prepayment (this can include the security deposit). On top of this, landlords expect a deposit of roughly the rent amount. 

We had planned to move once our lease was up to an apartment costing €3100. Our real estate agent suggested we offer a total of €21,700. This included 6 months of prepaid rent and a deposit. Not so cheap after all! Cheaper groceries and goods do not make up for the high rent.

Lack of Amenities

Vilamoura (and Portugal overall) does not invest in playgrounds. The only one in Vilamoura we found and liked was what they call “the train park”. The park is fully enclosed and has several different play gyms. If I saw this park in America I would not consider it nice. It was nice relative to the rest of the options.

There are no fully equipped gyms in Vilamoura. We tried Browns Sports Club but were very disappointed in the customer service on top of the weight room being a tiny basement. We enrolled our son in a swimming class at Browns and it was essentially a “swim with your child with no instruction” class.

Don’t expect to receive any Amazon or food/grocery deliveries. About 85% of our packages were returned to the sender or dropped off at the post office. After asking around, we learned this is the norm and is just accepted. 

We learned quickly Vilamoura wasn’t the place we’d stay long term, but it was a good landing spot for us as we navigated moving abroad to Portugal and waited for our visas to be approved. Overall, Vilamoura served its purpose for us. But I can tell you it’s NOT on my list of recommended travel destinations.

So what’s next? Will we move to another city? Another country? 

Most likely. 

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Jessica